Like probably every tourist in Egypt, I was assailed dozens of times per day
from merchants, felluca captains, caliche drivers - all wanting to sell
me merchandise or services. At the pyramids and tombs, anyone striking up a
conversation would pass on some small bit of information and then ask for
baksheesh. Guardians of the tombs where photography is now forbidden
would offer permission for photos in return for
baksheesh. Most children approach and ask for it outright. Understand the
impact this has - being approached by anyone becomes anything from tiresome to
annoying to infuriating. One assumes it ultimately leads to a request for
money. And yet it's hard to explain or even understand how it can also be the
case that the Egyptian people, though clearly strongly motivated by money, are
still warm-hearted friendly people. One doesn't lose faith entirely - one
simply proceeds with caution.
It was still Ramadan in November of 2003. While wandering
through Gurna, I was approached and engaged in conversation - much the same as
is done by the merchants, felluca captains and caliche drivers, and with the
anticipation on my part that it would ultimately lead to a request for money
- "hello - what
is your name - where are you from - please stop, just a moment, please - why
won't you speak......" It led to an invitation into a courtyard outside a
home where a feast was being prepared to share between 8 families after
sundown to mark the end of the fast. From there I was invited to a home of
an alabaster carver to have tea and sweet cakes, although the man and his
family could not partake. When it was time for me to leave, he had his
daughter wrap the sweet cakes for me to take along. I didn't want to
offend the hospitality by offering money, but wanted to thank my host and
asked if there was something I could offer. He refused. I asked if I could
give him something for his daughters and still he refused. It was a simple
case of Egyptian hospitality.
